This book is a semi-autobiographical account of the author's experiences as a steamboat pilot on the Mississippi River before the American Civil War. It provides a detailed and humorous depiction of life and society along the river, including the author's own journey from an eager young apprentice to a seasoned riverboat pilot. The book also includes a travelogue of a journey down the Mississippi River much later in life, offering a look at the dramatic changes brought about by industrialization and the Civil War.

In this travelogue, the author embarks on an ambitious solo journey down the Mississippi River, navigating the complex currents of both the waterway and the American heartland. Steering a 16-foot aluminum motorboat, he delves into the diverse cultures, histories, and landscapes of the river, encountering a vivid cast of characters along the way. The narrative captures the essence of the United States during a particular period, exploring the intersection of the past and present, the urban and rural, and the mythic versus the everyday. Through his eyes, readers experience the mighty river's role as both a conduit for adventure and a mirror reflecting the nation's soul.